Salerno's Holiday Lights

What We Saw in Salerno

I have spent hours researching festivals and events that we could overlap with, based on our travel schedule. The Truffle Festival in Langhe? Not for a few months. The jazz fest in Copenhagen? No dice. All to no avail: even smaller festivals seemed to be just outside our travel dates. In Salerno, on the other…

Surprising Things About Naples

As in smaller towns of the Amalfi coast, many bathrooms have no toilet seats. As in Salerno, there are many french fry stands. The drivers here – of both cars and mopeds – are particularly aggressive. They drive wherever and whenever they feel like it, from going the wrong way down a one-way street, to driving 3…

Maiori Waterfront

Surprising Things About the Amalfi Coast

Many bathrooms in this area do not have toilet seats. This applies to both fancier restrooms in public and regular bathrooms in homes. It is not that they can’t afford one: perhaps they find the custom weird? I’m not sure if squatting is the order of the day, or if they sit on the rim. I miss toilet…

Maiori Cheese Small

What We Ate in Maiori

One interesting fact about the restaurants in Maiori: they all seemed to have the TV on throughout the evening. Some patrons watched quite enthusiastically, reminding me a bit of TV dinners. Il Baluardo: Alas, this restaurant did not get us off on the right foot with Maiori dining. On the plus side, the cheese platter…

Maiori Seaside

The People of Maiori

I may have disliked Rome, but I am a big fan of the Amalfi coast. We’re staying in a small town on the Tyrrhenian Sea called Maiori, and the people here are amazing. A few stories to show what I mean:   Yesterday, we decided to go hiking (a story for another day). Without a map, we found ourselves…

Cars in Rome

Why Rome Is Not My City

It is a very good thing that this is our second trip to Italy and not our first, or I might never come back. Now hear me out. I spent six weeks in Paris in 2001, five months in Lyon in 2004, three months in Los Angeles in 2005, two years in Manhattan in 2007, and 17…

Roman House

Where We Stayed in Rome

Neighborhood: Trastevere Also called: N/A Pros: Not in the heart of the tourist area, so the throngs aren’t as bad People are out at all times of night, so it’s fairly safe (though that’s true of much of Rome) Lots of transportation options: various buses and trams Cons: I thought most of the food in the neighborhood was…

Roman Cheese Plate

What We Ate in Rome

Take Sushi Ristorante Giapponese [Trastevere]: We might have gone a little overboard, after having very little lunch on the train to Rome. So, B got gyoza dumplings and seaweed salad and a salmon/avocado roll. I ordered an oshinko (pickled radish) roll, and sea bass, salmon and scallop nigiri. We also split a spicy tuna roll, which was…

Rialto Bridge

What We Saw in Venice

We were in Venice for 3.5 days. Boat Ride: Part of the tour of Venice that my dad arranged for us all was a boat ride around the canals. It was a spiffed-up motor boat, somewhat like the one on which we spent entire summers when I was a kid. Our driver, Marino, was a quiet man who operated…

Italian Church Sign

Because I Don’t Rant Enough

Today, B and I went to several churches in Rome. They varied in architecture, in denomination, in decoration, and in location, but they all had one thing in common: people disrespecting their primary rule. Some allow photography and some don’t, some ask you not to go into specific portions or chapels, but all have a…