13 A Tavola: There was quite the effort to find us a place to eat because (a) we set out at 2:30, as usual, and (b) it was August. Our hosts racked their brains for each possibly-open, non-ridiculous location, referencing a guide book and business cards, and making several phone calls. They finally sent us to this spot, which was by itself in a courtyard of sorts. Because of the late hour, we had the place to ourselves. The weather and view were nice: breezy, but warm, and un-crowded, which is a very large plus in my book. Less successful was the food. Having read about a local specialty similar to calzones, I ordered something similarly-described. When it arrived, it resembled nothing so much as a big ball of grease. I’m not kidding: oil was actually splattering off this thing. And the inside, which included a green veggie of some sort and a ton of cheese, somehow managed to be unappealing to me (who loves cheese and veggies). B ordered a pizza, which was much better. I feel bad that my food was unappealing, because the service was fairly attentive, and B’s food was decent. Alas, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Osteria Porta di Po: I had seen a recommendation for this restaurant on a site like Chow, one of the few I use to identify good food (versus ambiance or value, for example). And I was not disappointed. I had meat so tender that it fell apart, and all of the flavors were spot on. We can’t remember what B ate, and the menu changes each day, so no good way to verify. However, given how much I loved my dinner, I’d be willing to recommend this place on that alone. Our waiter even spoke multiple languages, and actually taught me a few phrases in Italian (like, ‘Yes, we’re ready to order!’). And it’s in a touristy area, so easy to get to. Recommended.
Eataly: As described elsewhere, we enjoyed this very fancy market. I got the pasta special of the day, which was a thinly-hand-cut tagliatelle of sorts, in a pound of butter. The portion size was ridiculous: I could have fed multiple people off this thing. It definitely tasted fresh, and who can argue with butter? B’s pizza was similarly nice, and later, someone told us that this place is specifically known for its pasta and pizza. I would say that this place is worth going to, though likely not unless you either also need groceries or are in the area/take the subway. By foot, it’s a bit of a hike.
Maison: The appeal of this cafe was its location in a quiet square made up of a park. The food was also decent: I had smoked salmon, and B had a salad, and both were good. If you ignore that their bathroom doors don’t really lock (and that some mortified older gentleman walked in on me), I’d recommend it!