Dubrovnik Old Town

What We Saw in Dubrovnik

We were in Dubrovnik for 3.5 days. Old Town Walls: I was skeptical of this activity, because paying $20 each to walk up and down steps with lots of other tourists seemed silly. However, everyone seems to recommend it, so we did it. And it was probably worth it. Imagine a big fortress surrounding a…

Konavoka Restaurant

What We Ate in Dubrovnik

Really, this post should just be called ‘An Ode to Konavoka’ – or, ‘what happens when you have no data service.’ Konavoka: Our host recommended this place, so we headed over one day for lunch. It was cute, with grape vines overhead, and tables inside and outdoors, including a couch and swinging chair options. That time,…

Croatian Pastries

What We Ate in Zagreb

Mikina Klet: We arrived hungry, and the kitchen here was open until 23:00, so that was good enough for us. N was very happy to get fresh mushrooms and cucumbers, and I enjoyed my štrukle, which was like a casserole of crêpe dough and cheese. We were happy with the dinner in spite of the middling…

Budapest Door

Where We Stayed in Budapest

Neighborhood: District VII Also called: Erzsébetváros, Jewish Quarter, Elizabethtown Pros: Fairly central to everything, except a few of the hills on the Buda side Near an excellent market, at Hyundai ter (square) and many grocery stores It’s between two subway lines There always seemed to be someone out, even at night Cons: If you stay in…

Budapest Metro

Surprising Things About Hungary

Here were 7 things that surprised us about Hungary. It may seem silly, but I was excited by Hungarians’ use of pepper and spices. As in: they used them! That isn’t to say that Scandinavians and Italians avoid spices, but they tend to opt for ones like basil and sage. I missed the little kick of pepper.…

Shops

Be Our Guest

So, who’s been hosting us at their apartments? What kind of people rent out rooms on AirBnB? So far, we’ve stayed with: 4 graphic designers/directors 3 shop-owners 3 landlords/owners 1 (group of) psychiatrist(s) 1 (group of) vineyard owner(s) 1 banker 1 chef 1 Embassy worker 1 farmer 1 handyman 1 language teacher 1 medical professional…

Eating Pigeon

A Different Class of Gluttony

On a recommendation, we went out for a ridiculously-fancy dinner with my cousin (L) and her boyfriend (E) while in Budapest. It was at Costes, a restaurant with a Michelin star, and they pulled out all the stops. It was the second-most-expensive meal of our relationship (that we paid for), and I left feeling like I…

Hungarian Palinka

What We Ate in Budapest

Rosé Restaurant: This was the first restaurant we went to in Budapest: it had good reviews and Hungarian food, which is what we sought. The place was dark and reminded me a bit of a hunting lodge. I ordered peppered grilled chicken with steak fries. The fries were very well-spiced, and the portion size was huge.…

Budapest Peppers

Buying Bread in the 21st Century

Yesterday, we went to the little market near our apartment. I’ve gone four or five times during our week in Budapest – getting breads, yogurt, and even Hungarian sauerkraut. This time, we were hoping for a few pastries and breads. The bread stand was made of clear plastic, so you could see the different offerings. Most…

Fisherman's Bastion

What We Saw in Budapest

We spent 5 days in Budapest. Margaret Island: This was a fun pedestrian island, not unlike Djurgården in Stockholm. We sat with our feet in the cool fountain, watching the different patterns of the jets and helping a toddler fish out his rubber ducky. We ate some hot dogs, steak fries, and pickled things. Then, we rented…