A Lapad Beach

Where We Stayed in Dubrovnik

Neighborhood: Lapad Also called: N/A, as far as I’m aware Pros: Fewer tourists than the Old Town, so you don’t feel like a crammed-in sardine Lots of places to eat, at almost all hours Direct access to the ‘beach’ (think pebbles, not sand): it’s harder to get to from Old Town Not far from Town:…

Museum of Broken Relationships

What We Saw in Zagreb

We were in Zagreb for 3 days. Funicular: We took this very small funicular the three minutes up from the modern town to the old town. It was cheap and it avoided a big hill climb, but it’s not an amazing tourist attraction you must see. However, it’s pretty cool that it’s the oldest public transit in Zagreb (one…

Croatian Bakery

Surprising Things About Croatia

Here were 11 things that surprised us about Croatia: Zagreb The trams and the road in general weren’t well-separated from the sidewalks. As a result, every time a tram went by, I felt like I was very close to it, or like I could accidentally walk into its path. We saw quite a few people…

Dubrovnik Old Town

What We Saw in Dubrovnik

We were in Dubrovnik for 3.5 days. Old Town Walls: I was skeptical of this activity, because paying $20 each to walk up and down steps with lots of other tourists seemed silly. However, everyone seems to recommend it, so we did it. And it was probably worth it. Imagine a big fortress surrounding a…

Konavoka Restaurant

What We Ate in Dubrovnik

Really, this post should just be called ‘An Ode to Konavoka’ – or, ‘what happens when you have no data service.’ Konavoka: Our host recommended this place, so we headed over one day for lunch. It was cute, with grape vines overhead, and tables inside and outdoors, including a couch and swinging chair options. That time,…

Croatian Pastries

What We Ate in Zagreb

Mikina Klet: We arrived hungry, and the kitchen here was open until 23:00, so that was good enough for us. N was very happy to get fresh mushrooms and cucumbers, and I enjoyed my štrukle, which was like a casserole of crêpe dough and cheese. We were happy with the dinner in spite of the middling…

Budapest Door

Where We Stayed in Budapest

Neighborhood: District VII Also called: Erzsébetváros, Jewish Quarter, Elizabethtown Pros: Fairly central to everything, except a few of the hills on the Buda side Near an excellent market, at Hyundai ter (square) and many grocery stores It’s between two subway lines There always seemed to be someone out, even at night Cons: If you stay in…

Budapest Metro

Surprising Things About Hungary

Here were 7 things that surprised us about Hungary. It may seem silly, but I was excited by Hungarians’ use of pepper and spices. As in: they used them! That isn’t to say that Scandinavians and Italians avoid spices, but they tend to opt for ones like basil and sage. I missed the little kick of pepper.…

Shops

Be Our Guest

So, who’s been hosting us at their apartments? What kind of people rent out rooms on AirBnB? So far, we’ve stayed with: 4 graphic designers/directors 3 shop-owners 3 landlords/owners 1 (group of) psychiatrist(s) 1 (group of) vineyard owner(s) 1 banker 1 chef 1 Embassy worker 1 farmer 1 handyman 1 language teacher 1 medical professional…

Eating Pigeon

A Different Class of Gluttony

On a recommendation, we went out for a ridiculously-fancy dinner with my cousin (L) and her boyfriend (E) while in Budapest. It was at Costes, a restaurant with a Michelin star, and they pulled out all the stops. It was the second-most-expensive meal of our relationship (that we paid for), and I left feeling like I…